A centre of sandalwood carving, silk and incense production, Mysore, the erstwhile capital of the Wadiyar Rajas, is one of South India’s most-visited places. Mysore is a charming, old-fashioned and undaunting town, dominated by the spectacular Maharaja’s Palace, around which the boulevards of the city radiate. The city’s famous Devaraja Market, is one of South India’s most atmospheric produce markets. A giant complex of covered stalls bursting with bananas, luscious manges, blocks of sticky jaggery and conical heaps of lurid kumkum powder. On the outskirts of the city is the empty ruin of Srirangapattanam, the island fortress of Britain’s nemesis Tippu Sultan, and the bird-crammed Ranganathittu Sanctuary. Further on is theChennakesava temple of Somnathppur, a spellbinding example of Hoysala architecture.